The farmhouse outside Noto – a journey into authentic Sicily
When we started dreaming about spending a year travelling in Italy, the idea quickly came to us: what would it be like to live out in the Sicilian countryside? A small, romantic escape surrounded by olive and almond groves, with rustic farmhouses resting quietly in the landscape. We carried these romantic ideas with us – and knew we had to live them out and see what it was really like.
This became the beginning of our journey through Val di Noto – with all its secrets, beauty, stunning baroque towns and beaches that quite literally take your breath away. It didn’t take long before this became one of our absolute favourite regions in Sicily. And perhaps that’s no surprise – because from our perspective, this area truly has it all. Beautiful landscapes, rolling vineyards, olive groves, mountain villages and majestic baroque towns. And all of it just a short drive from the sea and long sandy beaches.
It was also here that we met some incredibly warm and generous people – people who have since become dear friends. What more could you ask for?
The dream of the Sicilian countryside
We didn’t know much about this area when we decided to rent a farmhouse. The only thing we had to go on was a short hotel stay nearby a couple of years earlier. But we had both been completely captivated by the landscape, and that feeling alone was enough for us to take the leap and follow this dream.
We ended up renting a small apartment in a farmhouse about 10 minutes from the town of Noto. It was perhaps the most rustic and Spartan stay of our entire journey in Sicily. The apartment was furnished with old farmhouse furniture and had a small sleeping loft tucked under the ceiling. In return, we had a large garden to enjoy – and a small table with two chairs under a beautiful carob tree.
The apartment was part of the main house on the property. The family who owns it lives there parts of the year, mostly during summer. The house and land are looked after by Nonno – nearly 80 years old. He built everything himself back in the day, and is now a retired engineer from Noto.
Our restaurant recommendations in Noto
Noto offers some of the best dining experiences we’ve had in Sicily – authentic flavors, outstanding ingredients from both sea and land, and strong culinary traditions. Here you’ll find our favorites, from small artisan bakeries and sidewalk cafés to osterias and Michelin-starred restaurants.
Spring in Val di Noto: Between outdoor showers and shifting weather
We stayed at the farmhouse in March and April, and whenever the weather allowed it, we used an outdoor shower mounted on the side of the house. This quickly became one of the highlights of our stay; showering outside in nature felt incredibly refreshing. The indoor shower worked well enough, but the showerhead was a bit hit or miss – you had to be lucky for the water streams to actually hit you. It reminded us more of an old watering can used for plants.
Regardless of the shower situation, we absolutely loved the experience of living simply in the countryside – surrounded by stray dogs that would occasionally stop by, and our dear, toothless 100-year-old cat that we named Marko.
Another everyday activity that quickly became a favourite was hanging laundry on a line in the garden between two olive trees. The scent of freshly washed clothes drying in the open air, surrounded by buzzing bees, lemon trees and spring flowers, was nothing short of magical. From time to time, we would catch a glimpse of the owner walking around tending to the trees, with his dog patiently following behind. What a peaceful and relaxed life...
In the beginning of our journey, our Italian was quite limited, and we quickly realised we just had to throw ourselves into it. One day, when the owner came by to change the gas tank, we somehow managed to communicate through a mix of pointing, smiles, broken Italian and broken English – all blended into a joyful and slightly chaotic conversation. There was no turning back now.
A vacation within the vacation...
Over time, we came up with the concept of a "vacation within the vacation". It meant that we couldn’t pass up the chance to stay at a hotel or visit a special place – even though we already had somewhere else to stay. We compared it to living in Tønsberg and deciding to take a weekend trip to Oslo.
Dimora delle Balze
While staying at the farmhouse, we took many trips to nearby towns – and also visited a beautiful and rustic hotel called Dimora delle Balze. It is set in stunning surroundings, with vineyards, carob trees and a small river flowing through the valley below. The chefs even fish for mountain trout there, which is used in the menu. Erica, the hotel’s sommelier, kindly showed us around the property and shared its fascinating history.
We had lunch by the pool, and it was an experience in itself to sit outside and enjoy a seven-course meal in the middle of March. We chose the tasting menu, and without a doubt – it ranks among the top five meals we’ve had in Sicily. We will never forget the open rabbit ravioli, the charcoal-grilled salad, and the black garlic ice cream. Dimora delle Balze is located just a few minutes from Palazzolo Acreide, and about 30 minutes from both the farmhouse and Noto.
Country House Villadorata
Another equally magical and impressive place we stayed, close to both the farmhouse and Noto, was Country House Villadorata. A luxury hotel with warmth and soul – a place that treats its guests like family. The architecture is more modern, with a strong focus on sustainability, and it is located just 10 minutes from Noto. This is also where we met some truly wonderful people – people we are still lucky to call our friends today. You can read more about our stay at Country House Villadorata here.
